If the red indicator in HomeLink continues to flash slowly (does not begin to flash rapidly), repeat steps 2 thru 4. If the red indicator in HomeLink begins to flash slowly at first, then rapidly, release both buttons, and go to step 5. While continuing to hold the HomeLink button, press and release the remote transmitter button every 2 seconds. Press and hold the remote transmitter button and one of the HomeLink buttons at the same time. If the red indictor in HomeLink continues to flash slowly (does not flash rapidly), your remote transmitter may stop transmitting after a short time. Make sure you are not blocking your view of the red indicator in HomeLink.
Hold the end of the garage door opener remote 2 to 5 inches from HomeLink. Unplug the garage door opener motor from the electrical outlet. If you are training the second or third buttons, go directly to step 1. To do this, press and hold the two outside buttons on the HomeLink Transceiver for about 20 seconds, or until the red indicator flashes. If you just received your vehicle and have not trained any of the buttons in HomeLink before, you should erase any previously learned codes before training the first button. You can also try decreasing the collision sensitivity (I can send you an email with the info if you like), but please be advised that this makes the gate less sensitive to an obstruction and could pose a risk. Possible causes could be: dirt or stones on the rail, bad rack joints, missing teeth in the rack, worn wheels or guide-rollers or a damaged rail. Try disengaging the gate, moving it back and fourth and feeling whether it sticks at any particular point. The symptoms you describe as well as the error indication (4 flashes) certainly do seem to indicate an obstruction. This is all assuming that you have a diesel vehicle with a 24 volt starter and that is why you have two batteries.
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(That is the switch that puts the battery in series to run the 24 volt starter, then puts the batteries in parallel to run the remainder of the vehicle on 12 volts. It sounds like the other battery is almost dead, regardless, and it sounds like your series/parallel switch may be malfunctioning. (Six 2.2 volt cells connected in series inside the case.) Put the meter on a known good battery on another car that is not running and see if you get the same reading. If you still read 16 volts when it is disconnected, you must have a bad meter because the battery can't produce that much voltage, no matter what. COMPLETELY DISCONNECT BOTH OF THE BATTERIES. Typically, it will read about 12 1/2 volts when disconnected.
The alternator will put out about 15-18 volts to charge the battery normally, and yours may put out 28-32 volts to charge them in series, but the batteries, when disconnected, should never read more than about 13.2 volts each. If you are reading 16 volts, you are probably getting extranious voltage from the system somewhere, especially if the vehicle is running when you check the voltage.
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This manual contains important information regarding safety. Hansa Installation & Fault Finding Manuals.